Short answer
Stock Ender 3 PLA settings land near a 200 to 210 C nozzle and a 55 to 60 C bed, with cooling turned off for the first few layers and a 5 to 6 mm Bowden retraction. PLA is the easy material on this printer, so the usual problems are bed level and wet filament, not the temperatures. Dry the spool, level the bed, and these numbers give a clean first print.
01 Starting PLA settings for the Ender 3
These numbers suit a stock Ender 3 with the Bowden extruder and the original PTFE-lined hot end. The nozzle, bed, and fan values track the Prusament PLA datasheet, which lists a 210 C nozzle with a 10 C window, a 40 to 60 C bed, and full fan. The retraction baseline and the speed tuning are Marqilo starting points for the Bowden setup. Use them for a first print, then adjust.
| Setting | Recommended | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Nozzle temp | 200 to 210 C | PLA melts cleanly here. 200 C is a safe start for most PLA; 210 C helps at faster speeds or with silk PLA. |
| Bed temp | 55 to 60 C | 60 C gives the strongest first-layer grip on glass or PEI. The Prusament PLA TDS allows 40 to 60 C. |
| Retraction | 5 to 6 mm | Bowden-tube baseline. Tune within 5 to 6 mm if you see fine strings between moves. |
| Part cooling | 50 to 100% | Off or low for the first 2 to 3 layers, then ramp to 50 to 100 percent. PLA takes more cooling than PETG. |
| First layer | 200 C, 60 C bed, 20 mm/s | Slow and warm. A slow first layer bonds PLA to the sheet. |
| Print speed | 50 to 60 mm/s | Marqilo starting point. The Prusament PLA TDS allows up to 200 mm/s, but 50 to 60 keeps a stock Ender 3 clean. |
02 How to adjust PLA settings
Level and clean the bed
Heat the bed to 60 C, then set a light paper drag at all four corners and the center. Wipe the sheet with isopropyl alcohol so oil and dust do not break adhesion.
Set the temperatures
Nozzle to 200 C and bed to 60 C is a safe start that melts PLA cleanly and holds the first layer.
Run cooling low then high
Keep the part fan off for the first 2 to 3 layers, then ramp it to 50 to 100 percent for the rest of the print.
Tune retraction for stringing
Start at 5 mm. If fine hairs appear between travel moves, step up toward 6 mm until the strings clear.
Slow the outer walls
Drop outer walls to 25 to 30 mm/s for a cleaner surface, and keep infill at 50 to 60 mm/s to save time.
03 What goes wrong
Most failed PLA prints on an Ender 3 trace back to three causes. Wet PLA pops at the nozzle and prints rough or cloudy, so dry the spool if it has sat open. A nozzle that is too cold causes under-extrusion and weak lines, which clears when you lift it toward 210 C. A cold or unlevel bed lifts the corners, and the first-layer adhesion guide walks through that fix in detail.
Frequently asked
What is the best PLA temperature for an Ender 3?
What bed temp should I use for PLA?
Why is my PLA warping or lifting off the bed?
Do I need an enclosure to print PLA?
For the printer side, the Ender 3 guide covers the machine itself, and the PLA filament page explains the material in depth.
Related guides
Related
More in this area
Cross-reference
Sources & methodology
5 citations · reviewed 2026-07-10- 01Prusament PLA Technical Datasheet (TDS PDF): nozzle, bed, fan, and print speedaccessed 2026-06-29Tier 1
- 02Bambu Lab PLA Usage Guide (wiki): PLA bed temperature and propertiesaccessed 2026-06-29Tier 1
- 03Polymaker PolyLite PLA Technical Data Sheet (TDS)accessed 2026-06-29Tier 1
- 04Creality Wiki: Ender Series documentation and hardwareaccessed 2026-06-29Tier 2
- 053DSourced: Complete 3D Printer Filament Guide (PLA nozzle and bed ranges)accessed 2026-06-29Tier 2